ROSALIND SHARES HER HAIR JOURNEY

I started my hair journey in 2020 not as a process of self-discovery or liberation, but due to severe breakage. Coincidently, also recovering from an illness, I had an ‘aha’ moment, to utilize recuperation to cease relaxing and dyeing my hair to give it a break and try to remedy the damage.

The adage a woman’s hair is her crowning glory, matters greatly to black women, due to a history of hair stigmatisation dating back to the 1700s and persists to the present day. Hair after all is a form of self-expression, declares identity, is one of the first things people notice, and reflects femininity, personality and style.

In addition to the choice of hair colour and style, deciding on hair texture creates two distinct camps. Those who chemically straighten/relax their hair and those who do not. The latter group, referred to as the ‘natural community’ advocates embracing and celebrating the natural afro-textured coily hair we are born with.

Like many black women, in the past, I too splurged on hair care, including hair growth products, not that I was wishing for the cascading locks of Rapunzel, but healthy hair.

2020

My journey can be summed up as a period of trial and error, insight and persistence. My first course of action was to educate myself regarding hair care. A significant discovery was learning about hair porosity, which is the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture as it passes in and out of the cuticle’s outer layer. This can be identified by way of the ‘water test’, whereby a clean, dry single strand of hair is put into a glass of water. If the hair floats at the top, it is classified as ‘low porosity’, if it hovers in the middle as ‘medium/normal porosity’ and if it immediately sinks to the bottom as ‘high porosity’.

 

The ‘water test’ identified my hair as ‘high porosity’, which ticked all the categories I experienced – looking and feeling dry; tangling; prone to breakage; air dries quickly; absorbs products quickly, but due to its porous nature is unable to retain moisture. I also learned the importance of reading hair product ingredients and what to avoid; the advantage of pre-pooing; was introduced to co-washing by my daughter; that deep conditioning is a vital element of a hair regime (though I did condition); the advantages of scalp massages; the importance of being hydrated aiding hair; avoiding or lessening the use of heat tools to hair; benefits of keeping hair moisturised; gained a better understanding regarding oil and water. Oils are not necessarily moisturising, though those that are, are better used as a sealant for dry hair types.

I trialled the ‘LOC Method’, highly recommended for my hair type. The acronym equates to liquid or water-based leave-in conditioner, oil and cream, applied to the hair in that order. This quickly proved the elixir my hair needed, coupled with my two go-to protective style options, plaiting or Bantu knots. I deep conditioned every wash and applied a hair mask once per month; used a micro fibre towel to remove excess water; air dried hair using curlers; self-trimmed hair every two to three months; adapted finger combing and when combing started at the ends; used satin pillow cases and a satin head wrap at night to avoid further friction to hair. The regime worked a treat and no longer experienced breakage.

I have deliberately not mentioned the hair products I used, primarily because what works for one individual does not necessarily work for another and products are very much a personal trialling exercise.

2021/2022

After a year and a half, my hair had grown from jawline to shoulder length, a first, though the trashy ends had to be cut. I also decided to resume relaxing, professionally, extending this from every six weeks to 10-12 weeks. I also made the momentous decision to no longer dye my hair, though I had always vowed I would go down kicking and screaming against grey hair. I believed it to be very ageing for women and assumed I would arrive at a point of acceptance in my own time. Though not yet at 100% acceptance, I am beginning to embrace my grey, which is aided by family and friends’ compliments that it looks good. In one instance I was referred to as a ‘silver fox’, a definite ego booster. My hair journey continues but at a level of much more awareness.

A good hairdresser is invaluable, they are worth their weight in gold. Equally, check out the many black women hair influencers on YouTube and Pinterest.

What’s your hair story? Let me know in the comments section.